Bangkok to Krabi

Our last morning before the journey to Krabi. We were on the overnight train from Chiang Mai to Bangkok and neither of us had had much sleep. The train was comfortable and we hadn’t seen a single cockroach so we weren’t complaining, however it was just too bright and bumpy to sleep for any length of time. We arrived in Bangkok a bit later then planned but as we didn’t have a flight to catch until 1.30pm we were in no rush. We said our farewells to Dong and Jennie at the station and was whisked off in a taxi back to the airport. Third time here in as many weeks!

We had decided against finding something to do in Bangkok for the extra few hours as we weren’t that keen on the city and as its so big, its hard to do anything quickly. Thankfully we could check in any time for the flight and so we booked in and enquired about using the Thai Airways lounge as we had 5 hours to kill. They said they could upgrade us for £30 each which Leigh was happy with. It was a good decision. The lounge had unlimited tea/coffee/food/internet access and comfy chairs so we settled in. We caught up on the blog, sent some emails and generally chilled out. We felt we deserved a little luxury and this was to be the nice end to the holiday.

A short flight later we landed in Krabi and were taken to the hotel which is really out of the way. On arrival we were met with hot towels and a drink and given a tour of the complex. There are only 42 rooms and the service was fantastic. Every need is taken care of. It was definitely very luxury which is something I’d not had the experience of before.

We took a stroll down to the beach and spotted a crab. Normally I only ever find shells at home so this was quite novel. The we spotted another and then more. The tide was out and we could just see crabs right up the beach. We joked this is why the place is called Krabi!

After exploring the beach and hotel we grabbed a bite to eat then headed back to our room. We popped into the library on the way back and took out a few dvd’s and some books as well.

Chiang Mai to Bangkok

We both felt quite refreshed for the comforts of a hotel and very grateful for a proper bed and not a single cockerel in earshot. We were pretty much packed and ready for the train later in the day but before we left Chiang Mai, we were booked on a half day cooking course. As we both loved Thai food we wanted to learn some of the basics and try our hand at cooking some.

We joined a big group of people and all sat on the floor around a low table. We chose our three dishes out of the 6 courses (we could only do three as we were only doing a half day course). We were all given a basket and off we went to the market to get the ingredients. At the market we were told about all the different herbs, spices and vegetables, as well as the noodles and some other things that go in Thai food. With our baskets full it was back to the cooking school so we could make our first dish. Leigh & Jennie made Pad Thai and I made chicken & cashew nuts and they were both delicious.

Next up it was the spring rolls which we all made together. All the dishes are incredibly simple and have the same few basic ingredients.  I’m sure you could easily recreate these at home if you had the right fish sauces to go in them.

Lastly we made Thai green curry which I was really looking forward to until I noticed a big grub floating in my curry on the hob. It had obviously come out of the veg I’d cut up so needless to I didn’t fancy trying any of it. Leigh enjoyed his though!

We then went back to hotel before being taken to the station to board our overnight train to Bangkok. The journey would take about 15 hours but this didn’t really seem that bad after all the travelling we had done. The only thing we were worried about was how clean it would be as a couple who also did the overnight train to Chiang Mai from Bangkok said theirs had lots of cockroaches on it. Once we boarded our fears were unfounded and we sat into some rather large and comfy chairs. I think the other couple must have gone super economy! We opened a beer, and read our books to pass the time. At about 10pm a guy came round and pulled the top bunk down and made the lower seats into a bed. It was good night, knowing this would be the last night of slumming it before Krabi!

I’m on a bamboo raft, getting out of here! –By Leigh

Neither of us sleep very well due to the many  cockrells going mental every hour or so.  Little bastards, I fancy chicken for breakfast, but its the usual egg on toast. (They started at 3am and sunrise wasn’t until 6am – little buggers were eager – A)

We needed to pack our bags carefully this morning as we were gong on a bamboo raft.  I.e sealing camera’s and expensive things into plastic bags so they can’t get wet.  Bamboo raft doesn’t sound very stable, and they don’t look it either, so there are not many pictures today.

Here’s a picture I took of another group so you can see how it works…

On our raft as above the guides were on the front and back powering / steering.  Anna was at the back, me middle, Jenny stood at the front holding the tripod which suspended our bags.  The bags are suspended because the raft is always under the water a bit, at least.  So sitting down gives you a cold wet bum!  The journey was three hours in total, I stood for about 30 minutes before sitting in water, by which time the sun was blazing again so not a big deal.  Jenny stood for the whole ride but had the tripod for stability on the faster bits.  Anna was told to sit down for the faster rapids which was very funny.  Especially as the raft would generally go a more under the water at this time!  The wasn’t warm as it is someing down from altitude, so Anna was making some great noises as the water rushed over us! (I wanted to stand the whole way, but didn’t have anything to hold on to so ended up getting quite wet. I think I did pretty well not to fall i though!- A)

The journey started slow, and got progressively faster and more interesting.  At one point the raft nearly flipped and my shoes which were hooked on the tripod, started floating off!  But I skilfully grabbed them in time of course.  Another incident saw us get wedged on a tree truck that was coming out the river at an angle on some fast rapids!  They had to get off and lift us off.  It all helped to break up the three hours with a little excitement!!!

We eventually got to the finish and had our last included lunch and jumped back into the jeep for a bumpy ride back to Chaing Mai.  We were both very happy to be back in civilisation.  All of a sudden the crappy hotel shower which was mounted at waist height, seemed fantastic and brilliant, it was hot water halleluiah!

We had our final dinner with the group and did a little shopping at the Chaing Mai night market before getting into a normal bed and sleeping very well.

Thai Trek Day Two – By Leigh

I wake up wondering where I am again for the seventh time, probably something to do with the rice whisky i guess.  But at least this time it is light, so it must be time to get up for trekking day number two.

I promised myself a bamboo shower this morning, and it was needed after yesterdays hard walking and the bonfire.  Should also wake me up quite nicely.  It certainly refreshed like no other shower i’ve ‘experienced’

 

 

Now I’m FULLY awake we have some eggs and bacon on toast, pack-up and get going.

It was a nice camp lodge, which had only been built last year by Intrepid.  As ever its good to be moving on though.

 

After an hour of so of moderate walking we stop off for water and Dong and Boon start making us some bamboo chopsticks! 

I'm also pleased to see that Anna is coping a lot better today.

A bit further down on one of the main tracks we let a moped past.  These paths link most of the villages, but we didn’t walk on them much, we mainly took more direct harder routes over the hills.

They don’t think they know each other, people are just really friendly here…

Next stop about an hour later and its bamboo cups this time!…

Look Anna’s smiling!

Rice fields, we must be getting close to some kind of civilisation again!

WE stop for lunch on the edge of this rice field in a bamboo shelter.  Apparently these kind of shelters are used for women to put there young children in when they work the rice fields.

Lunch was noodles and some ‘KFC’ chicken served in Banana leaves!  Eaten with our Bamboo chopsticks that where made earlier of course…

It was really really good.

Afterwards we popped to the nearby stream to wash and freshen up.  Its really hot, must be about 30 degrees…

Now back for tea!  Boiled in guess what?

Drunk it from our bamboo cups and used a promptly constructed bamboo tea spoon!  Very cool…

Here are some pictures of the final leg to the village after lunch, it took about an hour and a half…

If you look closely in the picture below (middle bottom) you can just make out the hut where we had lunch. We climbed this high in about 30 minutes - A   

Although we knew this had been a really good memorable experience, we were both pleased when we got to the village.  And also happy to see the river which we will be rafting down tomorrow, so no more walking!

This village was much bigger than the last, it has its own school and a population of about 300.  The facilities were not as nice. How does squat toilets and a cold shower with an old oil drum filled with water and a scoop sound?  I wish I was joking. 

All experiences that make you appreciate what is normally taken for granted though.  But not much fun either!

As ever everyone is very friendly.  We settle in, I chill out for a bit after our half day trek, Anna and Jenny chat…

The bar underneath our accommodation!…

Before sunset we go and watch the guides playing football.  I was invited but didn’t fancy showing them up too much.  I just want to be a humble guest and not to be mistaken as David Beckham.

While watching the football one of the locals, an ex guide, wanted to talk to me about football.  They love the English premiership and follow it more closely than I do.

Another fine dinner of different Thai food created by Boon, the banana spring rolls are a highlight…

Then over to the campfire for some songs and games!  Not before they made some sticky rice in Bamboo.  Same as we had seen being made in Cambodia.

The games included singing and enacting the Chang (elephant) song.  And doing an elephant walk, kind of like the conga expect you are linked between the legs, like an baby elephant holding its mums tail!  Oh what fun!

 

The local disperse somewhere else, Jenny goes to bed, leaving Anna and I to chill by the campfire for a bit under the moon and stars with a friendly dog.  It’s been a hard but amazing day.